Ice cream is a much-loved treat all around the world, but French-style ice cream is truly special. While American-style (also called Philadelphia-style) ice cream is made with a simple mixture of milk or cream, sweetener, and flavorings, French-style ice cream is slightly more complex. The base is crème anglaise (English custard), a cooked mixture of egg yolks, milk, sugar, and vanilla. A little cream is added at the end for extra richness.
As there is no thickener like cornstarch or flour in crème anglaise, this custard can curdle easily if you are not careful. I prefer to cook the custard quickly over moderately high heat, paying very close attention. Be sure to have your sieve and a clean bowl ready beside the stove. Then as soon as it is ready, you can remove the cooked custard from the hot saucepan to stop the cooking and minimize the risk of curdling.
Another distinguishing feature of French vanilla ice cream is the use of a vanilla bean, rather than vanilla extract, for flavoring. The bean is infused in hot milk prior to cooking the custard. Once the custard is ready, you scrape the vanilla bean seeds into custard, giving the ice cream beautiful flecks of vanilla. Vanilla bean contributes the purist vanilla flavor, but if you don’t have it on hand, use 1 teaspoon vanilla extract; add the extract at the end of cooking. I recommend splurging on real vanilla extract rather than imitation. For the most affordable vanilla beans, I shop online.
Unfortunately, vanilla beans are extremely expensive these days, due to a number of factors. Cultivation of the vanilla plant, a type of orchid, is particularly labor-intensive. The plants flower just once per year, and the flowers must be pollinated by hand. In addition, Madagascar, which produces most of the world’s vanilla supply, has experienced catastrophic weather events in recent years, and the storms have destroyed crops.
You will notice that this recipe makes a fairly small batch of ice cream. I prefer to churn small batches at a time because a small quantity of ice cream mix freezes quickly. Quick freezing minimizes the chance of ice crystals developing, ensuring a smoother result. I tested this recipe in a one-quart Donvier ice cream maker. If you have a two-quart ice cream maker, you can double the recipe. If you are using a one-quart ice cream maker and you would like to make a large quantity of ice cream, double the recipe and churn-freeze the ice cream mix in two batches.
The luxurious vanilla ice cream is fabulous on its own, but you can dress it up with Chocolate Ganache Sauce, Raspberry Sauce, or Caramel Sauce (all below), or fresh fruit. Summer is short. Enjoy true vanilla ice cream à la française!
Equipment: Ice cream maker
Ingredients
1 3-to 5-inch-long piece vanilla bean (optional)
1 cup whole milk
3 large egg yolks
1/3 cup granulated sugar
2 teaspoons mild-flavored honey, such as clover
½–1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 cup heavy cream, cold
Preparation
1. If using a vanilla bean, split it open with the tip of a paring knife. Place the milk and vanilla bean in a small heavy saucepan, and heat over medium-high heat, stirring often, until steaming hot, but not boiling. Remove from heat. Let the vanilla bean infuse the milk for 30 minutes. Use tongs to transfer the vanilla bean to a small bowl, and set aside.
2. Set a fine-mesh sieve over a medium bowl, and place it by the stove. Gently rewarm the milk just until steaming. Meanwhile, place the egg yolks and sugar in a separate medium bowl and whisk vigorously (or use an electric mixer) until lightly thickened and light, 3 to 4 minutes if mixing by hand or 1 minute if using an electric mixer. Slowly whisk the warm milk into the egg yolk mixture.
3. Scrape this mixture back into the saucepan and place it over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon in a figure-eight motion, until the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of the spoon, 3 to 4 minutes. The custard should reach a temperature of 160 to 176°F. (You can check with an instant-read thermometer.) Do not let the mixture boil. Immediately, pass the mixture through the strainer into the clean bowl. Using a clean whisk, whisk in the honey and vanilla extract (1/2 teaspoon if using a vanilla bean or 1 teaspoon if you have not used a vanilla bean). Scrape the seeds from the reserved vanilla bean into the custard, and return the bean to the custard to continue infusing the custard.
4. Place ice cubes and cold water in a large bowl to make an ice bath. Set the bowl of custard in the ice bath to cool quickly, for 20 to 30 minutes. When the custard reaches room temperature, remove the bowl from the ice bath. Cover and refrigerate the custard until thoroughly chilled, at least 2 hours.
5. Place a 1-pint (or larger) storage container in the freezer to chill. If using a vanilla bean, discard it. Whisk the cream into the custard. Churn-freeze in an ice cream maker following the manufacturer’s instructions. When the ice cream has thickened and starts to pull away from the sides of the canister, scrape it into the chilled storage container. Place a piece of plastic wrap or wax paper directly on the surface. Cover tightly and let the ice cream harden in the freezer for 1 to 2 hours. (The ice cream can be stored in the freezer for up to 1 week, but it will become quite hard. Transfer to the refrigerator for about 20 minutes to soften slightly before serving.)
Yield: 4 servings, about 1/2 cup each
Per serving: Calories: 250. Total fat:16 grams. Saturated fat: 9 grams. Cholesterol: 180 milligrams. Sodium: 40 milligrams. Carbohydrate: 23 grams: Fiber: 0 grams. Sugars: 23 grams (added: 19 grams). Protein: 5 grams.
Chocolate Ganache Sauce
This sauce is a chocolate lover’s dream, and it could not be easier to make.
Ingredients
1 cup heavy cream or whipping cream
6 ounces bittersweet (60-70% cacao) chocolate, chopped (1/2-inch pieces)
2 tablespoons corn syrup or agave syrup
Preparation
Place all the ingredients in a medium microwave-safe bowl. Microwave at high power for 30 seconds. Stir with a flexible spatula. Microwave at high for another 30 seconds, and stir. If the chocolate has not melted completely, microwave another 10-seconds, then stir until it has melted, and the sauce is smooth.
(Alternatively, heat the cream and corn syrup in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat until tiny bubbles form around the edges. Remove from heat. Add the chocolate and stir until it has melted, and the sauce is smooth.) Let cool until warm, but still pourable. (The sauce will keep, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 1 week. It will become quite thick. Warm gently in the microwave until it is pourable.)
Yield: 1 ½ cups.
Per 1-tablespoon serving: Calories: 80. Total fat:7 grams. Saturated fat: 4 grams. Cholesterol: 10 milligrams. Sodium: 0 milligrams. Carbohydrate: 5 grams: Fiber: 0 grams. Sugars: 3 grams (added: 0 grams). Protein: 1 gram.
Caramel Sauce
Once you are comfortable making caramel, this sauce is easy to make. It makes a beautiful finish for vanilla ice cream as well as roasted apples and pears.
Ingredients
¾ cup granulated sugar
1/3 cup water
¾ cup heavy cream
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
Pinch of kosher salt
Preparation
Place the sugar and water in a small heavy saucepan (not a dark-colored saucepan). Cover and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Remove cover and cook, without stirring, until the syrup turns deep amber, 5 to 8 minutes. You can tilt the saucepan and swirl the syrup if it is not caramelizing evenly. Remove from heat. Standing back because the caramel may sputter, add the cream all at once. Stir with a wooden spoon until the sauce is smooth. If some of the caramel does not dissolve, place the saucepan over low heat, and stir until the caramel has melted. Stir in the vanilla and salt. Let cool and serve warm, at room temperature or chilled. The sauce will thicken as it cools. (The sauce will keep, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.)
Yield: 1 1/4 cups.
Per 1-tablespoon serving: Calories: 60. Total fat: 3 grams. Saturated fat: 2 grams. Cholesterol: 10 milligrams. Sodium: 10 milligrams. Carbohydrate: 7 grams: Fiber: 0 grams. Sugars: 7 grams (added: 7 grams). Protein: 0 grams.
Raspberry Sauce
Add a scoop of vanilla ice cream, some sliced ripe peaches and you have the famous dessert, Peach Melba. I find that easier to sieve out the raspberry seeds when the puree is still a little frozen.
Ingredients
1 (12-ounce) package frozen unsweetened raspberries (3 cups), partially thawed or thawed
3-4 tablespoons granulated sugar, depending on your taste
2 teaspoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
Preparation
Puree the raspberries, sugar, lemon juice and balsamic vinegar in a food processor until smooth. Pass through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl to remove seeds. (The sauce will keep, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.)
Yield: about 1 1/4 cups
Per 1-tablespoon serving: Calories: 15. Total fat: 0 grams. Saturated fat: 0 grams. Cholesterol: 0 milligrams. Sodium: 0 milligrams. Carbohydrate: 4 grams: Fiber: 1 gram. Sugars: 3 grams (added: 2 grams). Protein: 0 grams.
Patsy Jamieson