As summer transitions into autumn, I always feel a touch of wistfulness. But the arrival of fall produce, especially the hard-skinned, orange-fleshed, winter squashes, quickly lifts my spirits. Fall is also soup season, and a silky squash soup is the perfect comfort food on a chilly evening.
Winter squashes come in a wide range of varieties, each with its own special characteristics. But for my squash soup, I opt for familiar
butternut squash; its smooth skin makes it much easier to peel than most other varieties. A Y-shaped peeler is a handy tool for peeling
butternut squash. It provides a secure grip and saves your wrist from twisting as you work. To scoop out the seeds, try using an ice cream
scoop.
Peeling and cubing fresh squash does require some effort, but if you are short on time, most supermarkets sell pre-peeled, cubed squash during the fall — a convenient shortcut.
Seasonal fresh pears and pear juice contribute subtle sweetness to this soup, while thyme lends a delicate earthy flavor. A dollop of crème fraîche, swirled into each bowl, brings all the flavors together.
2 tablespoons butter or extra-virgin olive oil
2 cups sliced leeks (4 medium, white and light green parts only; thoroughly washed)
2 pounds butternut squash, peeled, seeded, cut into 1 1/2-inch chunks (4 generous cups)
2 ripe but firm medium (or 3 small) pears, peeled, cored, and diced
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves or 3/4 teaspoon dried
3 cups chicken or vegetable broth (preferably vegetable broth cubes reconstituted according to package directions)
1 cup unsweetened pear juice
1 tablespoon lemon juice or apple cider vinegar
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
3/4 cup crème fraîche
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon milk
Fresh or dried thyme leaves or snipped fresh chives for garnish (optional)
1. Melt the butter (or heat the oil) in soup pot (4-to 6-quart capacity) over medium heat. Add the leeks and cook, stirring often, until softened but not browned, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds. Add the squash, pears and thyme; cook, stirring for 1 minute. Add the broth and pear juice; bring to a simmer. Adjust the heat to maintain a lively simmer, cover and cook until squash and pears are very tender, 35 to 45 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, whisk the crème fraîche and milk in a measuring cup or small bowl until smooth.
3. Purée the soup using an immersion blender, traditional blender, or food processor; see Tip below. Use caution when blending hot liquids. Stir in the lemon juice (or vinegar). Taste and adjust the seasonings with salt and pepper. The amount of salt you need will depend on the saltiness of the broth you use. (The soup can be made ahead. Let cool, then cover and refrigerate for up to 3 days or freeze for up to 3 months.)
4.To serve, ladle the soup into bowls. Add a dollop of the crème fraiche mixture to each bowl and swirl it into the soup. Garnish with the thyme leaves (or chives).
In Step 1, replace the thyme with 2 tablespoons finely grated or fresh ginger.
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